Hiking and Camping in Big Pine Lakes

Mountains, pine trees, and gorgeous turquoise lakes!  What else can you ask for in a hike?  The Big Pine Lakes hike in the eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains of California is an incredibly popular hike for good reason.  This hike can be done as a day trip or a multi-day backpacking excursion.  You can camp anywhere along the route, including any of its 9 lakes.  I strongly recommend taking a few days to see and enjoy more of this incredible area.  I have backpacked this trail twice and visited all 9 gorgeous lakes.

The Hike to Lakes 1, 2, and 3:

Lakes 1, 2, 3, and the jagged peaks of Temple Crag are incredibly photogenic.  A bit of effort is required to reach them, however.  The hike to Lake 1 is about 4.5 miles with an elevation gain of just over 2,000 feet.

The start of the hike is pretty exposed with a nice view of the mountains ahead.  Within a couple of miles you will be walking among the pine trees.  You will continuously climb elevation up to the lakes.

For most of the hike you can hear and often see the tumbling creek which has a couple of small waterfalls along the route.  This provides plenty of opportunities for filtering drinking water after mile 2.  Lon Chaney Cabin rests about half-way along the hike to Lake 1.  This stone cabin was built in 1920 next to the creek.  After the owner passed, the forest service took over ownership and kept it for its historic value.  While you cannot enter the cabin, this is a lovely, shaded area for a mid-hike break.  I love sitting on the giant rocks nearby overlooking the water.

Lakes 1, 2 and 3:

As you approach Lake 1, you may not believe your eyes.  Yes, the water really is that crazy turquoise color you saw in photos online.  Dark green pine trees are scattered along the gray rocky edge.

Lake 1 and Lake 2 are practically right next to each other.  Both are brilliant turquoise bodies of water, but Lake 2 is often considered the most stunning of all the lakes since the peak of Temple Crag rises up behind it.  Lake 2 has some really epic campsite views if you manage to snag one of these desired spaces.  While the view is amazing, you will have a few more close by neighbors, so less privacy and quiet.

Lake 3 is at the 5.5 mile mark of the hike and the elevation from the beginning to this point is about 2,600 feet.  Less than a mile from Lake 2, you should at least see these 3 lakes on your trip.  Since Temple Crag is in between Lakes 2 and 3, the other side of it rises behind this lake.  

We camped at Lake 3 on this most recent hike.  We found a nice, almost flat area jutting out to the water. It was in a quiet area with a clear view of the lake and Temple Crag.  Although barely large enough for our tent, we made it work.  Our campsite even had easy access to the icy cold lake, which was great for cooling down after a day of hiking.  

The unique color of these lakes disappears with the sun each night, returning once the sun crests the mountains the next day. The evening and early morning hours turn the lake into a mirror, reflecting the surrounding cliffs.

Lake 4 and 5:

Lakes 4 and 5 are quieter than 1, 2,and 3.  Since they are further away, many less day-hikers make it up to them.  While Lake 4 is not a turquoise lake, it is still a beautiful destination.  This tranquil marshy lake is definitely worth a visit.  It is about 6.5 miles and 3,000 feet elevation gain from the trailhead.

Lake 5 is a mild turquoise color and also very quiet.  On both visits, I hardly saw anyone in the area.  On my previous hike, we camped along the banks of Lake 5.  In the early dawn hours, the reddish glow of the mountain is perfectly mirrored in the still water. This is a great campsite if you want to visit lakes 6 and 7 on a day hike.  Lake 5 is about 6.8 miles from the trailhead and at a similar elevation as Lake 4.

Lakes 6, 7, and Summit Lake:

Lakes 6 and 7 are very peaceful, as very few people hike all the way to these lakes.  If on a multi-day hike, I recommend spending a day hiking to and relaxing by these beauties.  Lake 6 is a nice blue color with steep mountains set back behind it.  I loved hanging out in the flat grassy area next to the lake, taking in the surrounding nature. Lake 6 is about 8 miles and 3,300 feet elevation gain from the trailhead.

About a third of Lake 7 has mountains cradling it.  The rest is flatter, with plenty of grassy space.  The hike to lakes 6 and 7 does require finding your way across a giant pile of large rocks, leaving you unsure if you are actually still on the trail.  Lake 7 is about 8.5 miles and 3,400 elevation gain from the trailhead. On my most recent trip we only hiked lakes 1-5.  During the previous trip in 2018, we visited lakes 6, 7, Summit Lake, and Black Lake.  The photos below are from that trip.

On the way back from Lake 6, a side trail quickly reaches Summit Lake.

Palisade Glacier:

I haven’t hiked to the Palisade Glacier yet.  Maybe next time! It’s about 9 miles and 4,600 feet elevation gain from the trailhead.

Sam Mack Meadow:

I haven’t visited the Sam Mack Meadow either as it’s along the Glacier trail.  A good friend said it’s one of his favorite spots along this hike though, so hopefully next time.

Black Lake:

Black Lake is also not turquoise, its darker water is still lovely however.  It is surrounded by tons of pine trees and gently sloping hills beyond.  The trail to Black Lake starts near Lake 4.  You may choose to visit this lake on your hike out as described in the next section.  

Hiking back out:

Two main options for hiking out include backtracking the way you came or hiking past Black Lake.  If you take the trail past Black Lake, you will not get up close to lakes 1-3 again.  However, you do get a spectacular view from above them.

Tips:

Here is a map of the Inyo National Forest Big Pine area trails.  It shows the Big Pine North Fork, South Fork, Baker and Green Lakes, and Birch Lake trails and surrounding area.  www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/stelprdb5337640.pdf

Where is it?

The Big Pine North Fork Trail is in the eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains in California. It’s about 11 miles west of the town of Big Pine, CA.  

Mosquitos?

Yes, there are mosquitos in the area.  We had quite a few pestering us in the late evening and early morning.  Remember to cover up and/or bring bug repellent.

Getting a Permit:

Wilderness permits are required for overnight trips but not day hikes.  Since this trail is so popular, it can be challenging to get permits.  A limited number are released for each day.  60% of the spots are released 6 months before the entry date and the other 40% are released 2 weeks before.  Permits are released at 7am PT.  In my experience, during the summer they are all gone within a couple of minutes after posting.  Log on and attempt to put one in your cart as soon as the clock strikes 7.  

They can be purchased on the Inyo National Forest – Wilderness Permits site.  Here’s the link:  www.recreation.gov/permits/233262 

• Click “Explore Available Permits”
• Answer yes or no to if it is a commercial guided trip.
• Switch “permit type” to “overnight”.
• Pick your desired date.
• Enter the number of people in your group.
• Click the number under your date for Big Pine Creek North (Fork) out of the list of trailheads. (If it has a “W” listed, then the permits haven’t been released yet.  Refresh your page and try again)
• Click “Book Now”
• Enter the empty fields including your exit point and exit date.  Read the information listed.  You have 15 minutes to complete your reservation.

*Remember to print your permit and bring it with you on the hike.

Final Thoughts:

I really love the Big Pine Lakes area. If you only have a day, just hiking up to lakes 1-3 would be well worth the effort. With more time, you can explore so much more. Relaxing by any of these gorgeous lakes and watching the sunlight sparkle across the surface is time well spent. Breathing the fresh air; getting some exercise: observing the plants and animals; the whole experience is likely to lift your mood. I encourage you to explore this awesome trail.