We are jumping back to January/February 2020, before so many borders closed due to COVID and before Ethiopia’s civil war in the Tigray region began. During my first week traveling in Ethiopia I saw the busy city of Addis Ababa, the monasteries and Blue Nile Waterfall in Bahir Dar, and the castles of Gondar.
Addis Ababa
Addis Ababa is the capital of Ethiopia and where most people fly into the country. I spent just 2 1/2 days here and mostly was regrouping and resting up for the rest of my trek through the country. In the city, I visited some worthwhile museums, a few churches, and enjoyed the vibrant nightlife.
Museums:
The National Museum of Ethiopia is the most famous museum in the city. It’s well known for its archaeological display including multiple remains from the ancestors of humans. Most famously they display a partial skeleton of Lucy and they have a full plaster cast of Lucy as well.
The museum also has memorabilia from past rulers, items from ancient and mid-evil times, historic and current artwork, as well as some traditional tribe items.
The Red Terror Martyr’s Memorial Museum is a collection of items and photos from the Derg Regime (1974-1987) during which many people that opposed the regime were tortured and killed. There isn’t a lot of information provided within the museum, so you should read about the Derg Regime before going. It’s a free museum showing that Ethiopia too, like so many others, has had great tragedy due to harsh governments. The room holding remains of victims was sobering.
Churches:
St. Mary Church is across the street from the National Museum. It’s a beautiful church and worth a walk around it. The most interesting thing was seeing the people coming to pray. They all stop before entering the grounds, make a cross over their chest, and bow. Then many walk up to the church and kiss the building.
The Holy Trinity Cathedral is a short walk away. There are tickets to enter… but we entered from a side entrance and therefore opted to just walk around the side to the front instead of paying to see the entire grounds. Once again people were praying and bowing before entering the grounds.
The nightlife:
My first night here, I headed out with a few women staying at my guesthouse. We hailed a blue taxi. The blue taxis are the cheap ones… with lots of let’s call it “character”. In my limited experience, they often smelled of gasoline and I felt like the doors were about to fall off. One even needed the back passenger to hold the seatbelt of the front passenger (because seatbelts are legally required and this one didn’t work). But we made it safely to Fendika Azmari Bet, a bar/music venue. The main floor had open air space, a fire, bar, food, and artwork. Downstairs is another bar, seating, and a stage where Ethiopian music and dancing is performed. We were only able to stay for a few songs, but the energy was great, the music lively, and the dancing incredible!
The second night I headed out with another group from my guesthouse. We went to a cultural dance venue where we watched a performance and had great Ethiopian food.
Next we went to a small local bar, followed by a very popular club. Two young Ethiopian guys that sat next to us at the dive bar recommended the nearby club. We climbed many flights of stairs to find 30-40 people waiting to get in. Instead of waiting in a line, everyone crowds in as close to the entrance as possible, pushing for the front. Therefore, when someone exits, they can hardly get out. You get in based on how pushy you are, not how long you’ve waited. Once inside, there was a stage with multiple live performances rotating through the night and people dancing. We made friends with some Ethiopian/Americans there and had a great time.
Bahir Dar
I flew into Bahir Dar and it’s definitely a much different feel than the big city of Addis Ababa. There seems to be 2 main roads. The fancy hotels and resorts are along Lake Tana on one of these roads. On side streets kids play together, some kicking empty plastic water bottles, others balls. Teenage school girls walk slowly together down the sidewalk in their matching blue uniforms. Some people speak English, but it seems many didn’t. It was common for young men that spoke English to join you on your walk and want to practice English.
The first thing I did was check into my hostel: Manuhie Backpackers Lodge. As I walked in the gate I was surprised to see the courtyard filled with locals all eating. I had arrived on some sort of holiday. Church officials were there as well, and community members came and went all sharing a free meal of injera (a spongy flatbread) and some sort of meat and sauce as well as the local made beer… which doesn’t taste at all like beer as I know it.
I had read protests can be common in Ethiopia… and it only took a few days to see one. In Bahir Dar, in the morning of my first full day, hundreds of locals marched through the streets chanting and some holding Ethiopian flags. From what I understand , they were protesting the government for not doing enough in response to nor telling the public everything about some students being kidnapped 2 months prior in the south. Most shops were closed all day and hardly any traffic was seen until late afternoon.
When city life was back in full swing, I got to visit a bustling market in Bahir Dar. It was full of locals selling grains, vegetables, clothes and various items.
The local guide knew of a place on the outskirts where the hippos usually hang out in the river. We took a local bus and found them. On the way, we saw farmers drying their crops along the side of the road.
Lake Tana:
Bahir Dar rests against the huge Lake Tana. Birds hang out along the shore and float in the water. Islands exist within the lake, some of which have monasteries from the 16th and 17th centuries on them.
I joined a tour for a boat ride to visit two of these monasteries. Once on an island, a long path lined with vendors selling souvenirs leads to the old structures. Each has a circular church constructed of wood and inside, bright Christian paintings cover the inner walls. Only priests and deacons can enter the very center of the church which holds a copy of the covenant.
Blue Nile Waterfall:
A highlight of the region is visiting the Blue Nile Waterfall. The Blue Nile River originates at Lake Tana and joins together with the White Nile in Sudan. Then they continue on as the Nile through Egypt. It’s about an hour drive along a rough road to get to the start of the short hike to the waterfall. We crossed over a 17th century stone bridge built by the Portuguese. The path is pretty obvious if you want to do it without a guide. After a short climb you are rewarded with a nice view of the waterfall.
After crossing a hanging bridge over the gorge, you hike up to the base of the waterfall. The amount of water cascading over varies dramatically depending on the season. Even though I was there during the dry season when the waterfall is much less impressive, it was still beautiful!
On the drive back, we got a flat tire. As we stopped all the children from the village came out to stare at us, practice English, and request candy. Luckily the tire was repaired and we made it back to Bahir Dar that night
Gondar
Castles in Africa? Yup! There are a number of well preserved castles from the 17th and 18th century that draw people to visit Gondar. Take a tour of the remains of the walled city of Fasil Ghebbi (a UNESCO site) to see a number of these castles. There are official guides you can hire at the entrance. Many aspiring guides will also try to sell you their services on your walk to the site.
Fasilides Bath was once the bath for King Fasilides. These days the bath is usually dry, but it’s still a great site to check out. The walls of the outside bath have trees growing over them now, which will eventually undermine the structure. But for now they add to the character of this historical site.
The town of Gondar is fairly quiet and a great place to join your tour group on the next adventure… hiking in the Simien Mountains possibly? I absolutely recommend it!
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