Discovering Brunei

As the plane descends to land at Brunei International Airport, an automated voice announces that the country has a mandatory death penalty for anyone caught smuggling drugs. I’ve certainly never considered smuggling drugs anywhere… but following this announcement I felt a bit compelled to check my bag, just in case someone snuck something in there during the flight. They did not. I knew about this prior to planning my trip, but hearing the announcement was still a bit unexpected.

Entering through customs into the small country of Brunei was quick and simple. Finding the bus posed a bit more of a challenge… It was actually right outside the departures entrance, I just didn’t see the sign “Awas” for bus. The first bus to arrive would have gotten me to my destination, but the driver and riders on it didn’t seem to understand the words waterfront promenade and water village. So they left with me back on the bench. At this point I began talking to a couple and a young man also waiting for buses. The couple had a bus map on their phone and all four of us took the next bus for $B1 each. The bus took me to the main bus terminal of Bandar Seri Begawan, which is just off the promenade. I jumped on a boat taxi and paid the $B1 to jetty 2 and my Airbnb.

I only had 2 days in Brunei. After dropping of my bags, I wandered around some of the surrounding water village. Then I grabbed a boat back to the mainland and walked around to see what sights I would stumble upon. I spotted the Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque right away and walked the promenade toward it. I love this mosque and walked by taking pictures four times during my stay. The mosque was built in 1958 and named after the 28th Sultan of Brunei, who initiated its construction.

From here I walked on and found the Royal Regalia Museum. You must secure your belongings in a locker and no pictures are allowed except in the entrance. Inside pictures are displayed of the current Sultan (Hassanal Bolkiah) from childhood until present time. There are videos of the Sultan meeting the people in the streets, touching their hands, and posing for their selfies. Hundreds of gifts he has received from other countries around the world fill multiple rooms. The clothes worn by him, his wife, and the guard during his coronation are viewable behind a glass case. In another large room is the carriage he was carried in through the streets with a display of the clothes and numbers of guards carrying him. In this room a video loop shows the procession and crowd on that day. This is a great midday event.. there’s air conditioning inside .

That evening I went on a boat tour to look for probiscus monkeys which my Airbnb host (Kem) arranged. A man named Saiti took me out on the Brunei River, pointing out some historic buildings along the way. Soon we were surrounded by jungle. I was amazed by his ability to spot monkeys as we went cruising along. Our best sighting pulled us into an inlet between the trees where I counted 7 monkeys high in the trees.. which means there were probably many more.

Returning back to town, Saiti boated around the water village pointing out the first mosque, police station, fire station and schools all on stilts within the village. Kampung Ayer is the world’s largest water village. It was dark and difficult to take pictures so he offered to show me more the next morning for free. I happily accepted.

That night, I went back to the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque to capture pictures of it lit up. Absolutely stunning! The adjacent park was full of families, lights, and children playing on seasaws, rideable toy animals, and releasing lots of bubbles. I offered to take a picture for a group of locals that were trying to fit all 10 or so if them in a selfie. This led to pictures and selfies with me . Then we parted ways.

 

 

I crossed over to the nearby park and discovered a busy night market with lots of food, drinks, and items for sale. I picked up some fried noodles, mini churros, and large cold drink for a total of $B4. I enjoyed this so much that I returned the following evening for another type of noodles, a chocolate frosted doughnut, and (because I couldn’t decide which one) 2 yummy drinks. Again totaling $B4!

I woke up early the next morning to catch better light and more importantly, beat the heat. I left at 6 am and followed my google maps walking directions to the James Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. (It was a long walk.) I took lots of pictures around the mosque but discovered I was too early to enter it. Non-muslims were permitted to tour it starting at 10:30 that day. So I recommend you check the times before heading there. I learned later from my Airbnb host that you can take a boat a good portion of the way, so after taking part 2 of my village tour with Saiti, I asked him to drop me off. I walked about 15 minutes to the mosque and was allowed to enter once I put on one of their long black robes. No pictures are allowed inside however.

On Sundays, people are encouraged to ride bike and be outdoors together. There was all sorts of bikers around town and a large group dancing together in the streets to popular music. And of course, stands set up with food and delicious drinks of all sorts. With the heat and humidity (both on the 80’s), I really enjoyed trying different cold drinks. Brunei is a dry country, so no alcoholic beverages are sold anywhere. I think this contributes to the number of fun variations of beverages available throughout restaurants and street markets.

My final impression of Brunei is the people are very friendly and happy to help you. It’s easy to travel around since English is spoken well by the majority. People seem happy, with lots of time being spent with family and friends around the city. And children really love bubbles here . I did hear a bit that some younger people are feeling a little restless with not enough entertainment, and that maybe some more changes will come when the Sultan’s son starts his reign.

If you decide to travel to Brunei, I recommend staying at Kunyit 7 Lodge. It’s a great way to get a feel for the water village and Kem will help you set up tours. I believe she has lots of information to share on the water village and Brunei. I regret my time was too short and my body so jet-lagged. I wish I had had more time to talk with her. Go visit Brunei!