4 “Best” Restaurants from 8 Days Around Cuba

The restaurant scene in Cuba has been dramatically evolving in recent years. When I am asked how the food was, I say you don’t go for the food.  However, I think the food scene is making strong strides in that direction.  In the 1990’s, after the fall of the Soviet Union (which was supporting Cuba) and subsequently a dramatic decrease in Cuba’s economy, the Cuban government made economic reforms to allow small privately owned restaurants. Previous to that, only government ran restaurants were legal. There were many limitations to these newly allowed businesses, including the amount of food they could provide and the allowed number of seats. Raul Castro became the president of Cuba in 2008. He has since lightened the restrictions on restaurants, and increased the private business licenses granted.  Cuba may be at the beginning of a food revolution due to these new freedoms.

We dined at many locally owned restaurants, which were often run out of homes. Looking around these establishments, I only saw other tourists at the neighboring tables. This is because few locals can afford the prices. My first thought was, I would prefer to eat where the locals do to get a more genuine experience. However, as I learned about the people and economy of Cuba, I changed my mine. I felt that there was a genuine and rewarding experience at these “tourist restaurants” too. By dining at these, I was helping support newly legalized entrepreneurship in Cuba. The owners often have put so much of their lives and savings into starting their businesses. I felt proud to support them in this venture, and to improve their economic situations. I started to see paying a “tourist price” which mostly only tourists can afford, as a positive since the money would help the owners who previously could not develop their businesses extensively. I see this as one step in increasing the country’s economy and therefore (hopefully) helping the population within the country.

Best Owner Experience – Don Alexis
Location – Palpite

When we arrived, Alex met us at the door with a smile and handshakes. We entered to find a simple, partially open air seating area, encompassed by light blue walls covered in signatures, graffiti, and endearing comments from past patrons. He set us up at our tables, then took our drink orders and prepared all our beverages himself. The whole time we were there, I never saw him relax. He was taking orders, making drinks, and serving meals, all with a smile on his face. Despite how busy he was, he was happy to share a little info with me about his business… though I chose not to take up much of his time after seeing how hard he was working.

Alex opened his restaurant in the town of Palpite about 2 ½ years ago.  It’s a family business and the staff include his wife, daughter, brother in-law and nephew. The guide I was traveling with told us about his first time visiting the restaurant. He overheard Alex ask a table of patrons how they were doing. They responded by saying they were 100% good. Alex proceeded to ask how he could make it 105% good. I think this example nicely portrays how passionate Alex is about his business.

The meal options included different types of fish, shrimp, crab, and even crocodile. Each meal started with fish soup and breads with dipping sauces and cost 15 CUC (equalling $15 USD). Being a vegan (or sometimes just vegetarian while traveling), I cannot personally comment on these meals. However, I was traveling with a group of Irish girls who can. One said the shrimp was really good, but the fish soup was the highlight of the meal.  Another expressed how delicious the crab was, and how interesting it was trying crocodile. And multiple said the mojitos were the best they had in Cuba. Alex walked around with the meats prior to cooking them to show the guests how fresh they were. Upon their approval, the food was cooked in clear view. Alex did provide me with a vegetable plate, however it wasn’t anything to write about. So while I would recommend visiting this place to anyone that enjoys seafood, I would not for vegetarians. Though if you are in the area, it may be worth stopping in for a mojito!

While waiting, many of us took the opportunity to add our names to the walls of the restaurant. Finding a space to claim was a challenge since so many others had made their mark before us, but we each succeeded. When it was time to go, Alex joined us outside for a group picture by his restaurant sign. He appeared to be very proud of his business and genuinely appreciative of every person that dines there. This was the most personal, dining experience I had on the island.

 

Best Food – La Moneda Cubana Restaurant 
Location – Havana

This restaurant is located in an old house built in 1862 with several levels and a terrace. The first floor was used by the owners as a food and fine liquors warehouse in the early decades of the 20th Century. The owner, Ramon Menendez, started opening similar ones and it was a thriving family business until the government’s Nationalization Law made privately owned restaurants illegal. In 2010 the government granted permission for self-employment. The owners opened it the following January as La Moneda Cubana Restaurant-Paladar. In 2011, they also began a training program for unemployed young adults. They now train in a variety of culinary related sectors.

There are multiple dining rooms within the house. We were led up a flight of stairs along walls covered by old pictures of Havana.  We turned left, walked through a door and down another set of stairs to a quaint, lovely room with 5 tables, elegantly set up with red linens and white dishes.  The length of the back wall was filled by a brown wine rack and the front wall contained a small bar. Once  seated, I evaluated the menu, which contained 6-8 dishes. I sadly noticed it did not contain any vegetarian options. However, to my delight, I was informed there was a veggie dish available of Ratatouille. The meal was served with bread and an incredible squash/pumpkin soup cooked with spices. The Ratatouille was comprised of bean curd, veggies, rice, fried plantain and some delicious sauces. This was the most expensive restaurant I dined at in Cuba, with meals ranging from 16-20 CUC. However, there are no words to describe how delicious this meal was! And the feedback I heard from my group about their meals, paralleled my experience.  They had a good selections of wine and a trio performing live Cuban music, creating a fun, intimate atmosphere.

Best Location and Views – El Paraiso
Location – Vinales

El Paraiso has a fantastic panarama of the green mountains just past the farmland spread out below you. It’s an all organic farm, where they grow their own food. They serve family style meals for 10 CUC per person.

This farmhouse has seating available inside, on a patio, and outside in front. We were seated at a large outdoor table with a beautiful view and light breeze. The meal began with their signature drink “Anti-stress”. This was my favorite beverage in Cuba, and the first one is included in the meal price! It is similar to a pina colada, except with peppermint, lemongrass, basil and cinnamon, and could be served with or without rum. The waiter placed a bottle of rum on the table, so each person could choose how much to add.

The meal included soup, pickles, ocra, peppers, tortillas, chips, chicken, lamb, pork, sweet potatoes, rice and beans, and cabbage (which was prepared an exceptionally savory way). To finish the meal, the waiter brought out a flan for desert along with tiny cups of coffee. Definitely a fantastic meal!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After dining, I walked around the farm a bit to see the vegetables. Everything is fresh, organic, and on display for guests to see. I was very pleased to hear they give all of their leftovers to the neighbors and the clinic in town. If you go to Vinales, definitely check this place out!

 

Best Price / Cheapest meal – Government Pizzeria

Location – Havana (though these are all around Cuba)

I did visit one government restaurant where the prices were in Cuban Pesos. (In Cuba there are two currencies: Cuban Pesos and Cuban Convertibles or CUCs. The pesos are for locals and the convertibles for tourists. During my time here, there were 26 pesos in 1 convertible.) In this restaurant, everyone besides us was a local. It was a simple, but colorful space with arched ceilings that let in a portion of natural light.

The service was very slow, but since we didn’t have anything else we needed to do that day, this didn’t bother me. This did, however affect other patrons wanting to dine here. I saw a few groups enter, speak with the waitress and get turned away since there was not any more seating available. I offered (with my limited Spanish) to one couple to join us, as we had two free seats. They then noticed another couple they knew at neighboring table and joined them instead.

I ordered a cheese pizza and my friend ordered the lasagna. Each cost less than $1. My pizza was about 10” inches and comprised mostly of breading. There was a very light glaze of pizza sauce and dusting of cheese. The crust was actually quite nice though, a little salty, but being in such warm weather I enjoyed this. The lasagna was also a generous portion and he said it was quite good.  Since we didn’t actually have any pesos, we estimated with CUCs and left a rather good tip. Visiting a government pizzeria was great for the pocketbook, as I was running out of cash at the end of the trip. It was also a nice experience to compare with the locally ran restaurants we spent most of our meals at.

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