Varanasi - Beyond These Borders

Our first morning in Varanasi, my friend Angie and I ventured out on our own away from the tour group. We decided to set out in search of street food for breakfast. It only took crossing the street from our hotel to find a little stall set up frying breads and serving hot Indian veggies. Multiple locals were eating here, so we decided to try it out. We spent a total of 50 rupees (around 70 cents USD) which paid for unlimited veggies and bread for both of us. The cook kept asking if we wanted more, we would say “no”, and yet more was served to us. We found the only way to stop the food coming was to not finish what was in front of us.

Not only did we have amazing food, but another man was cooking and serving masala chai next to us. The chai cost 15 rupees per cup and was AMAZING… so much better than the chai served in our upscale hotels and restaurants.

Street food in Varanasi and amazing masala chai.

Also eating at that stall was a bicycle rickshaw driver. He was a young, thin man whose face was still stained red from celebrating Holi and had glitter stuck in his hair. He spoke limited English but another moto-rickshaw driver did a little interpreting for us and said to pay whatever we wanted at the end. We chose to have the young man ride us around the neighborhood for 20 or so minutes. We barely got our butts into his too small carriage and he worked hard to get us around. The bike creaked and his bike seat seemed to barely exist anymore. He was very happy to point out places as he pedaled and took a picture with us at the end. We gave him 200 rupees at the end (much more than is probably expected, but we wanted him to have it).

We joined back with the tour group and headed out of the city to Sarnath. This is the location where the Buddha gave his first teaching of the Dharma to his 5 disciples after his enlightenment. We went to the Buddhist temple constructed at this site. On the walls, pictures showed the life of the Buddha from birth to death.

Next we saw a tree that is said to be a part of the tree the Buddha found enlightenment under. It is said that a branch from the original tree was taken to Sri Lanka when Buddhism was brought over there. And a branch from that tree in Sri Lanka was brought here, planted, and grew into this tree. We walked around the tree, spun the prayer wheels, then spent some time taking in the spirituality of the space.

Nearby is the Sarnath Museum which holds artifacts found at the excavation site.

We also visited the ruins that have been recovered at Sarnath.

We headed back into Varanasi where the group visited a silk company; but we left the group to explore. We grabbed a moto-rickshaw to Durga Temple. It’s a deep red temple and no photography was allowed inside. We walked into the entrance to a man drumming in the corner. We left our shoes next to a wall and entered the main temple. We sat to the side and watched as people entered, rang the loud metal bell above them, and walked up to the Brahmin priest in the center who was taking offerings and giving blessings. One family came in with a goat who seemed very concerned about being there. We wondered if it was being offered, but they left with the goat again, now with flowers around it’s neck. So I guess the goat was there to be blessed. Around the temple were other bells that were intermittently banged by people. It was very loud inside.

Not only was it very loud inside, it’s also VERY loud outside with constant honking in the roads by the mess of cars, buses, and rickshaws all trying to get past each other and dodging cows along the way.

We also visited Monkey temple. It’s nicknamed this because there are a bunch of monkeys hanging out on the grounds. We weren’t allowed to take our bags or cameras inside this temple… so no pictures. We observed the monkeys for a while and walked through a large number of flies that also love this temple for some reason. We saw and listened to the people singing in the temple before departing. Then we found some more delicious street food outside this temple!

Back to our hotel for some much needed quiet before the highlight of the day. In the early evening we headed down to the Ganges, boarded a motorized boat, and traveled along the banks.

We approached one of the cremation areas and observed fires burning with families surrounding them. We were informed that at cremations, the husband or oldest son is to light the flame. Before the fire is built, the body is carried down and bathed in the Ganges. It’s then dried on the banks, after which the fire is built with wood purchased nearby. No women are at cremations because they are thought to be more emotional and crying out loud is not allowed as it may stop the soul from releasing from the body. I saw a body covered in a blanket being carried to the river on a platform, submerged in the water, and carried back up.

There were 4 cremations taking place while we were there. Photography is considered disrespectful, so I don’t have any closer up pictures to share. There were a few other visitors quietly watching… and plenty of cows hanging out on the steps as well.

We left this site and headed further down the Ganges to join many other boats to watch the Hindu nightly ceremony. The steps here were packed with Hindus taking part while the Brahmin priests performed the Aarti ceremony with fire and bells.

The next morning we headed back to the Ganges to see pilgrims walking to the water to bathe. It is said that every Hindu should visit the Ganges and dip in it once in their life to wash away sins. As we walked we saw groups chanting, people selling flowers and beads, and even a Sadhu. The Sadhu are Hindus who have renounced the worldly life and they cover themselves with ash from the cremation sites.